I have to admit I’m just a little in love with Clovelly Village. When we filmed at nearby Hartland Abbey for Antiques Roadshow, I met Johnnie Rous, whose family owns the village, yes that is not a typo, his family does own a village. This is, I think, key to its survival. One single village, preserved and not changed for 100 years, set in aspic, by its owner, a benign overlord, keeping an impossible place, possible.
The village is just charming, cobbled streets, white washed cottages. You can see why Rex Whistler fell in love with the place and commemorated it in his “Clovelly Chintz” and “Clovelly” design for Wedgwood.
I was one of the lucky ones who stayed in the village at The Red Lion. The hotel is the only place accessible by car and even then, for guests only. The rooms are charming, bathrooms immaculate, staff friendly (in a genuine way) and food wonderful. The fact it has just “Two stars” says a lot more about how we rate hotels in the UK, than it does about this little gem.
On the Thursday evening – in that post Roadshow fatigue, about 15 of us dined in the restaurant, eating lobster of such freshness, it was unsurpassed (even by my well trained palate!)
Climbing the stairs to bed, from my open window the sound of the sea (and some of Benjamin Britten’s “Peter Grimes”) lulled me to sleep. I’m not sure when i will be back, but i do know I *will* be back.
If you are looking for a hideaway where the world is somewhere else and peace and quiet in always on the menu – check in and order lobster.
(The view ain’t too bad either!)
www.clovelly.co.uk/